Prejmer Citadel walls Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015 |
According to
National Geographic Traveler, the villagers who emigrated to German-speaking
countries have abandoned their terra-cotta tile homes built very close to the
road and gypsies have moved in (p. 146).
Harman’s
Citadel has four turrets which indicated that “the people of Harman had the
right to pass the death sentence.” The 12 meter tall walls were built in the 15th
century to protect the citizens from the many outside invaders, eager for loot
and tribute. A 12th century Gothic church with a 13th
century funerary chapel are enclosed within the citadel rock walls. The chapel
contains fragments of Gothic frescoes.
Prejmer Citadel Inner Walls Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015 |
Prejmer’s
Citadel walls, built between 15th and 18th centuries, protected
inhabitants from constant siege coming from Austrians, Tatars, Turks, and other
neighboring provinces. The inside walls had 272 rooms on four levels,
refectories, a school, and galleries to accommodate the entire community during
an attack. A circular passageway connected the top level. The middle courtyard
was dominated by a Gothic place of worship built in the Rhineland church style.
The Citadel had an exterior portal, a 17th century wall, the
original 15the century defensive wall, and a 19th century wall
extension and entrance passageway with a dropping gate with sharp wooden spikes
that could impale someone unfortunate enough to be in the way when the gate
dropped.
Pigeons,
lilacs, and blossoming trees were shading the courtyard between the Gothic
church and the sleeping quarters accessed by steep and dangerous wooden stairs,
not for the faint of heart or wobbly jointed. I could not climb all the way to
the top where the very thick rocky retaining walls and ramparts were slightly
separated six feet from the residential part of the structure.
Prejmer Citadel 19th century entrance Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015
Prejmer citadel tools Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015
When the
Citadel of Prejmer was under attack or times were dangerous, the local
population took refuge inside the fortress. According to museum archives, an
old school functioned here, with its first teachers mentioned in 1460 and then
in 1556. The surviving classroom decorated with frescoes from the 18th
century was used as late as 1853 when a new school was built in the village of Prejmer.
Inner Gothic church Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015
Prejmer Gothic Church Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015
Prejmer Gate Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015
One hundred-year
old trees and purple lilacs bloomed in the courtyard, overwhelmed by the strong
scent of mold and old, dry wood. The green grass made a lovely contrast with
the dark and foreboding sleeping quarters now painted white, with black stained
beams. Centuries ago, this citadel must have been an island of peace and
protection from the constant Ottoman Empire attacks which continued for
hundreds of years. Every time they were pushed back, they returned with a
vengeance.
Prejmer residences Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015
Ten miles
from Brasov, after a pleasant drive through valleys flanked by blue mountains
and lush green meadows with billowing in the wind tall grasses, wheat, and wild
flowers, we found the city of Rasnov with its Citadel built by Teutonic knights
in 1215. The fortress is perched on a rock about 400 feet above town. Because its
location is difficult to access, the medieval castle was only conquered once in
1612 by Gabriel Bathory. The observation tower, which can be reached by steep,
creaking, and difficult to climb up or down stairs, gives a breathtaking 360
degree view of the Carpathian Mountains. The movie Cold Mountain was filmed not far from here.
Rasnov Citadel Photo: Ileana Johnson 2015
Archeological
digs found evidence of a fortified Dacian settlement during the first century
B.C. and first century A.D. named Cumidava/Comidava. Earthen moats, ditches dug around the rocky
peaks, and wooden palisades protected the population from the numerous
invasions. Parts of the fortification are still standing on the north side and
in the surrounding forest. Houses, some carved in stone, were located inside
the fortifications. Buried Items who were unearthed suggest a prosperous
settlement with trade relations. When the Dacians were conquered by the Romans,
a new Roman castrum was built on Ghimbasel Valley, bearing the same name,
Cumidava/Comidava.
Three buses of
American soldiers were visiting the fortress that day, climbing to the citadel
on foot, while children and less physically-abled adults were ferried up by a
tractor pulling a train of sorts. Humidity was low, the sun was shining, the
temperature was a balmy 72, and the rocky remains of the former castle were
buffeted by strong winds. A Romanian flag was proudly displayed on the highest
peak of the castle.
A resident
cat disappeared below a big drop through an open window, as if jumping to her
death. We found her later at the entrance, safe and sound, eating a treat
dropped by one of the American soldiers.
We have met
several Americans the night before, dining in an outdoor pizzeria near the
Black Church in Brasov. Some of these young men, part of the “show of force”
exercise in Romania which ended in Brasov, were happy to be off and around so
many beautiful young Romanian girls.
A couple of soldiers
were now interviewed by a young Digi-24 crew about their stay in Brasov.
Romanians at large were buzzing with fear in cafes and on the Internet that the
Americans have come to occupy them, albeit it too late, one older man joked. “We
could have used American help during WWII,” he said. We certainly did not need
the Soviets, he added with sarcasm.
We bought
two walking canes; besides an interesting display in the office, the canes were
quite handy for climbing or steadying when walking on cobble stones or rocky terrain.
And this fortress is difficult enough because it was dug into the Carpathian
Mountains.
The
Carpathian Mountains chain covers about one third of Romania and once formed
Europe’s largest volcanic link. There is only one extinct crater left with its
volcanic lake Sf. Ana north of Brasov. The U-shaped mountain chain runs from the
northwest to the southwest of Romania.
The drive
back took us through the Poiana Soarelui Street, a road winding up with constant
hair pin curves and dizzying drops until we reached Poiana Brasov, a popular
tourist destination in summer time for outdoor recreation and horseback riding,
and a fabulous ski resort in wintertime.Copyright: Ileana Johnson 2015
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