Doge's Palace, the view from our window in the morning Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016 |
The picture of the Venetian lagoon off the water bus Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016 |
Mazzorbo is
an island in the northern Venetian lagoon with orchards and vineyards. Linked
to Mazzorbo by a bridge, the island of Burano boasts a population of 2,800
inhabitants, an astonishing population density of 13,000 per square kilometer,
more than twenty times the density of Mazzorbo. It has few green areas and is almost
entirely covered by homes, tiny shops of hand-made lace linens, tapestry, silk
scarves, souvenirs, a few restaurants, and canals with fishing boats tethered
to the canal banks.
Burano cat
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
A pampered
kitty was curled up in a colorful plastic tub placed on the window sill of a
tiny green home with white lace curtains. The cat was photographed by the
occasional tourist wondering on the narrow streets. Clothes lines were peeking
from alleys less traveled by tourists.
Deserted Burano early in the morning
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
The locals
went about the business of life, hanging out their dirty linen for the world to
see, oblivious to the tourists from distant lands, who came by many means of
transportation, to visit their famous island.
A deserted street in Burano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
If locals
wish to paint their home, they must submit a request to the government; it
sounded so much like our local HOAs; the government then responds by telling
the homeowner what colors are allowed for that residence, based on a long-ago
established color scheme. I am certainly not an artist and thus I cannot see
the painting scheme, but to me, the carefully watched by design scheme looked
like a giant had decided to throw up a color pallet over the entire island.
Cloudy day in Burano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
The tourist area in the middle of Burano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
On a sunny day, the colors of Burano really pop
Photo credit: Wikipedia
Leaning Tower of Burano in the morning haze
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Burano vaporetto dock with sea gull
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Undergarments drying in the wind on Burano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Boats are tethered to the banks on Burano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Lacemaking in a dream of beauty
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
On a typical street - the sun came out
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
The Church of Martino in Burano has its own leaning tower, although not as famous as the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and a beautiful 1727 painting by Giambattista Tiepolo, entitled Crucifixion.
More lace shops
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Abandoned farmhouse on the way to Murano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
For
tourists, life on the 100 islands of the Venetian lagoon can only be described
like an enchanted slow water ride in a medieval setting. But for Venetians, it
is a life like no other, few roads on some islands, just canals, waterways,
boats, foot bridges, water buses, water taxis, firemen boats, police boats,
garbage boats, and the ferry.
Grand Canal in Murano Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016 |
The richer
cousin of Burano, Murano, is another vaporetto ride away. Vic Stefanu posted an
abbreviated video of the reverse boat ride from Murano to Burano. The sights
and sounds, the wakes from boats, the archipelago’s mysterious blue color, and
the bluish/grey haze express the pictorial essence of Venice. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsENPCwtsFA
Murano is
formed by seven islands linked by bridges and crossed by eight channels. With a
population of 5,000 people and a surface of 0.9 miles across, Murano is the
center of inimitable glass making.
View from a bridge in Murano
Pretty house on our way to Murano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Murano
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Monks
established the St. Michael monastery which quickly became a center of learning
and printing. Fra. Mauro, the famous cartographer and a monk at this monastery,
drew maps that were essential in the European exploration of the world. But
Napoleon’s expelled the monks from their monastery in 1814 and the grounds
became Venice’s main cemetery.
Murano's narrow streets Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016 |
There are palazzos on the island as Murano was a popular resort for Venetians in the 15th century. The countryside had orchards and vegetable gardens until the 19th century when housing construction expanded.
Blue glass sculpture in Murano Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016 |
Murano had a monopoly over expensive glassmaking for centuries. The types of glass they developed included optically clear glass, enameled glass (smalto), gold threaded glass (aventurine), multicolored glass (millefiori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made from expensive glass.
Hand-painted boat in the Burano Island dock
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Museo del Vetro (glass museum), located in Palazzo Giustinian, displays artifacts through history, including objects from Egyptian time to today. Glass making companies like Venini, Ferro Murano, Barovier & Toso, Simone Cendese and Seguso guarantee through their trademark that the glass objects are made on Murano island and nowhere else.
The Church of Santa Maria e San Donato is famous for its 12th century Byzantine mosaic pavement and is said to hold the bones of the dragon slain by Saint Donatus.
As lunch neared, we settled for a restaurant overlooking the Grand Canal on Murano. Most things were pricier to reflect the more expensive surroundings. A beautiful opaque blue outdoor glass sculpture decorated one of the canals. Tiny shops sold Murano jewelry, intricately made by master craftsmen in silver and aventurine glass with threads of gold and silver which could set the prospective buyer back around 80-100 euros.
San Michele Island cemetery
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
San Michele bronze statue rising out of the lagoon
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Isola di San Michele became a cemetery in 1837 when the government decided that the customary burial under church floors, in church walls, and in crypts was not so salubrious, was smelly, and “illegal.” In a place where flooding (Aqua Alta, high water) happens several times a year, it seems reasonable to bury the dead away from the living.
After we disembarked the water bus at Fondamente Nuove, it became obvious that all funeral homes were located in the immediate area, an ideal location across the water from the cemetery on Isola di San Michele. The photo of a 93 year old man who had recently passed away was posted in one window. I cannot imagine living on these islands but living for 93 years! For Venetians, it may be the highest honor to live and die in the middle of so much history and such romantic surroundings. But the daily life seems very complicated and tedious.
Even though the island was serene and green, it was unsettling. Venetians are born, live, marry, have children, die, and are buried on this island in the middle of the sea.
TO BE CONTINUED
No comments:
Post a Comment