Our Road Trip to New England (Part V)

The most beautiful part of our nine-day self-guided road tour of New England was the White Mountain National Forest across the 34-mile Kancamagus National Scenic Byway through New Hampshire’s White Mountains.

Although there were signs along the highways to be aware of moose crossings and sightings, we never saw one. However, when we stopped at the park entrance ranger station, I purchased a stuffed moose which I named Moe. Moe traveled on our dashboard for the rest of our trip through New Hampshire and Vermont.

Not even the grey, dreary day altered our spirit of adventure. We drove by thick forests of russet, yellow, magenta, orange, gold, sometimes reflected in the ponds so beautifully that we had to stop on the side of the road to admire God’s beauty. Even ordinary vines were turning beautiful colors.

Each stop we made along the 34-mile drive through a wonderland of color, we had to pay a fee of $5 to park or have an annual national park entry and parking permit.

The first parking spot was across from the Albany Covered Bridge, with a breathtaking view on the left of the Nanamocomuck ski trail, paralleling the Swift River. Under the bridge, we tested the cold water. The 950 feet elevation gain offered great views of Mt. Chocorua on the right.

At the Blackberry Crossing, we learned about the Civilian Conservation Corp (CCC) camp and its essential work in developing access to the beauty before our eyes. The archeological relics bore witness to the many peoples who have lived, trekked, and hunted in this area.

Next stop was the Rocky Gorge, a testament to the water’s fury and power which had carved enormous blocks of stone, creating a flume and falls on the Swift River.

The Lovequist Loop and Falls Pond stop allowed us to cross the Rocky Gorge through a footbridge. Once in the forest, about 100 yards up a slight hill which crossed the Nanamocomuck Ski Trail, we came upon a beautiful pond with breathtaking views of the forest across reflecting into the waters. It was so beautiful and unexpected that I was overwhelmed with tears of joy; taking in such visual magnificence and fresh air, I was speechless.

We found evidence of the past inhabitants of the White Mountain in the remains of the Passaconaway Village displayed in the Russell-Colbath House Historic Site.

The Rail and River Trail and the Sabbaday Falls were next. The 75 feet elevation gain on the trail hike took us to a remarkable waterfall and emerald pool. The rocks were wet and slippery, but many hikers attempted to walk on rocks in the middle of the Swift River in order to get that perfect shot of the falls.

At a gravel pull off, we found a Lily Pond where moose were often spotted grazing. Alas, we were not lucky to see a moose on this entire trip.

The highest point of the Kancamagus Highway was the Kancamagus Pass, elevation 2855 ft (870 meters). “An optical illusion made the sign designating the pass appear to be below the actual high point from either direction.”

An unnamed and highly trafficked overlook and the Hancock Overlook opened to a 180-degree view of Mt. Osceola. Not far were the Otter Rocks where kids could splash in the water.

The last stop was Lincoln Woods with a log cabin and a suspension bridge. The flat and wide path begins the exhausting journey into the Pemigewasset Wilderness area and the alpine terrain of the Franconia Mountain Range at the 5261 ft elevation.

It is hard to describe the joy in my eyes and the sensation of pure oxygen in my lungs when reaching the top of a steep incline and seeing below forests of thousands of trees, like a thick Persian rug in fall colors that could only come from God’s palette. It felt as if I was riding a roll-a-coaster and, if I could reach the treetops, I could run my hands through them like a piece of velvety fabric in striking colors of russet, orange, pink, yellow, marigold, magenta, and dark red. Like the clusters of sunflowers in a sea of yellows, these trees were sprayed with all colors in a sea that God could find in his artistic imagination.

What gave the trees such amazing, intense, blazing colors against the blue or grey sky? What made the trees so beautiful in New England?

It is a natural process triggered by the reduction of chlorophyll that produces green leaves. When the reduction takes place, then yellow pigments already inside the leaves are exposed. In the case of reds, it is the anthocyanin pigments produced by certain environmental conditions such as years with bright sunny days and cold nights, and the right amount of moisture, abundantly found in New England. During droughts, the colors are not so bright and leaves fall before the pigments have a chance to reveal themselves. The trees have to be of a particular kind, such as maples, be at the right elevation, and the right temperate zone, all found in a perfect combination in New England.

TO BE CONTINUED