Volterra Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016 |
Considered
one of the “twelve cities” of the Etruscan League, Volterra was known as Velathri. It is believed that the
surrounding area has been inhabited since the end of the 8th century
B.C. There are excavations of Etruscan
tombs in Valle Bona. The Etruscan City Walls have two well preserved gates,
Porta all’Arco (3rd-2nd centuries B.C.) and Porta Diana.
Volterra
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
The
Guarnacci Etruscan Museum displayed thousands of funeral urns dating back to Archaic
periods, a bronze statue, “Ombra della sera,” (Shadow of the Evening), and “Urna
degli Sposi” (Urn of the spouses), an Etruscan couple’s effigy sculpted in
terra cota.
Photo: Wikipedia
Piazza dei
Priori is a well-preserved medieval Tuscan town square; the Palazzo dei Priori
is the town hall built in 1208-1257.
The Volterra
Cathedral, enlarged in the 13th century, had a ciborium, a free-standing baldachin in the sanctuary. It was used at
times to emphasize the altar and other times to hide it.
Volterra Roman Theater
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
Walking
through the narrow cobbled stoned alleys, with the sun barely peeking through buildings
erected too close to each other, casting shadows and cool air on a sunny early May
day, I compared the surroundings with the images of Volterra cast in Luchino
Visconti’s 1965 movie Sandra.
Medici Fortress Prison with famous restaurant
Photo credit: Wikipedia
The Fortezza
Medicea (Medici Fortress), built in 1474, is a prison and houses the famous
restaurant by the same name where the meals are prepared by inmates. I was not
sold on the idea of eating a meal prepared by people who did not just broke the
law but committed murder by various means, poison coming to mind. I did not say
a word about its existence to my husband who would never miss an opportunity to
eat an Italian meal, even one prepared by inmates.
The
Renaissance era fortress is a high-security prison for criminals who serve at
least seven year sentences. Even though customers must pass a background check,
several checkpoints, and eat with plastic forks and knives, since the prison administrators
started operating the restaurant in 2006-2007 as a rehabilitation effort, the
tables in the Medici fortress are booked weeks in advance. I find it peculiar that
people are willingly subjecting themselves to such scrutiny just to eat a meal
prepared and served by criminals.
Not far from
Volterra is Lajatico, home town of the Italian tenor Andrea Bocelli. He gives
annual concerts in Teatro del Silenzio, concerts that are attended by people
from all over the world.
Peering from
the upper road down to the Roman theater, I imagined the majestic Greek
tragedies played on stage for the entertainment of the Romans long ago. Behind
me I found Fabula Etrusca, a tiny
gold showroom with unique Etruscan pieces, one of a kind. The tiny display
windows were stylishly decorated but contrasting oddly with the rock walls and
stony building carved into the rock with a heavy iron gate, steps going down
into a dungeon with an electronically locked metal door with grates that slid
like a prison cell door. The limited lighting focused mostly on the pieces displayed
on dark blue velvet. It was somewhat spooky funereal and the prices were steep.
A lady appeared out of nowhere and seemed very unfriendly and stiff, almost
like a jailer. I could not find the exit fast enough and some fresh air.
On the way back
to the underground parking garage, we found a store famous for its alabaster
works of art. Preoccupied with the beauty of mushrooms, I bought one carved in
clear alabaster and three inexpensive elastic bracelets faceted from real
stones and polished into geometrical shapes.
I was ready
to move on to the next stop, Siena. I really wanted to see the fan-shaped piazza
called Campo where the famous Palio is held each year.
Tuscany Hills
Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
We
backtracked most of the slopes and dangerous curves of Tuscany on the way to
Siena. The GPS kept taking us on one-way streets which were impossible to
escape. Italians were honking at us, shaking their fists, and some even stopped
their cars in the middle of the one-way road, got out, and started yelling
obscenities and making not so nice hand gestures in our direction. We laughed at them and continued on our way.
Somehow I think there is a picture of us somewhere in the traffic department in
Siena, the poster of stupid American drivers who do not know what a one-way
street is.
Streets of old Siena
Photo credit: Wikipedia
We finally
found a parking spot about .7 km from the Piazza del Campo, the shell-shaped
square. We walked very slowly as my knees have had enough and I was in
excruciating pain. The streets were narrow and dark with a distinct medieval
look.
Siena Cathedral
Photo credit: Wikipedia
On the Siena
Cathedral (Duomo), a Capitoline Wolf reminds the visitors of the legend that
Siena was founded by Senius and Aschius, sons of Remus who was murdered by his
brother Romulus. Fleeing Rome, the two sons took with them to Siena the statue
of the famous she-wolf who nursed the abandoned twins Romulus and Remus. Senius
and Aschius rode white and black horses on their journey from Rome, a source of
inspiration for the coat of arms of Siena with a white band on top of a dark
band.
Capitoline Wolf statue
Photo credit: Wikipedia
Sarcophagus of St. Catherine
Photo: Wikipedia
Siena was
first inhabited by Etruscans (900-400 B.C.) and then by a tribe called Saina. Etruscans were good planners;
their settlements were built in forts on top of hills that could be easily
defended against invaders. Etruscans were
outstanding farmers who used irrigation to grow food on terrain sometimes less
suitable for agriculture. During Emperor Augustus’s reign a town called Saena Julia was founded on the same
location as documented in 70 A.D.
An Italian
Romanesque-Gothic masterpiece, the Duomo, built on top of an existing church
which in turn was built on top of a pagan temple dedicated to Minerva, was
meant to be massive when the construction began in the 12th century,
but lack of funds because of wars and the plague forced the Sienese to reduce
its size by the time the façade was completed in 1380. The inlaid marble floors
are among the most intricate in Italy, the artistic work of many master
craftsmen. The pulpit was sculpted by Nicola Pisano. Frescoes were painted by
Ghirlandaio and Pinturicchio. Donatello, Lorenzo Ghiberti and other famous
sculptors left their imprint on the cathedral.
The famous Campo in Siena
Photo credit: Wikipedia
A view from above of the Campo square
Photo Credit: Wikipedia
The Palio (horse race) is held in this cobbled square twice a year, on July
2 and August 16, a competition reflecting the medieval rivalry of wards (Contrada), and a significant part of the
culture of the town.
Each of the seventeen wards has a mascot representing a city neighborhood
that was formed originally as battalions for defending the city. The trophy is
a painted banner or Palio with the image of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Each race
commissions a new Palio by famous artists and then is retired in the Contrade
museum. During the Palio, the entire town is festively decorated with lamps and
flags with the colors of the teams. I had to purchase such a Contrade scarf
which locals wear during the festivities.
A Sienese takes Palio very seriously; they are baptized twice, once in the
Catholic Church and a second time in the fountain of their own Contrade. A
dangerous competition, the Palio is surrounded by celebrations and banquets
before the event. The city pretty much closes many roads in order to
accommodate banquets in excess of 1,000 people.
With pomp and circumstance, drummers and flag twirlers dressed in
traditional medieval costumes accompany the horses and the riders on the day of
the event, first to the Contrade parish church for prayers and dedications and
then in a procession along the route, in the streets, and ending in the Piazza
del Campo, a traditional parade called Corteo Storico.
Each Palio can only accommodate ten of the seventeen Contrades. Seven teams
run who had not run in the previous year’s Palio, and three are drawn from the
remaining ten. The bare back riding race that lasts three minutes is dangerous
for both the horse and the rider. Practice races take place three days before
the actual race. Horses on their way to practice are cheered by crowds as the
stars of the show. Emotional Italians take the race and winning very seriously.
Vets are available during the race and cushions have been placed at the most
dangerous corners of the course to protect both horses and riders in case of
falls.
I counted at least six beautiful churches and a historic Siena synagogue. Most
notable was the sanctuary of Santa Caterina, with the old house of St.
Catherine of Siena. The miraculous Crucifix of the late 12th century
from which the saint received her stigmata is housed here, including a 15th
century statue of St. Catherine.
Palazzo Salimbeni was the original headquarters of the Monte dei Paschi di
Siena, one of the oldest banks in continuous existence in Europe. The Palazzo
remains in their possession to this day.
The city’s beautiful botanical gardens are cared for by the University of
Siena. The Siena Jazz School, Enoteca Italiana in the Medici Fortress, and
patrician villas that display the artistry of Baldassarre Peruzzi contribute to
the unusual charm of Sienna.
We limped back to our car which, surprisingly, was still there and had not
been issued a ticket even though we far exceeded the posted 60 minutes. At that
moment in time, Siena looked to us much more beautiful in our rear view mirror
and we were elated to get back to Florence.
Watching and reading Ileana's description of the heart of Toscana, I feel blessed that I was born in a country that once was part of the Roman Empire civilization. Will all the negative revisions written by the leftist historians in the contemporary school books, "the Victors do make the Vanquished more civilized!"
ReplyDeleteAmen, Dr. Aurel Mircea. I am also proud that I am part of the civilization that the Roman Empire spread around the world.
ReplyDelete