Breakfast area fit for a queen Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016 |
The antique chairs were decorated with cotton brocade, not a
wrinkle or stain in sight; the covers were removed after breakfast. The large
bay windows overlooked layered terraces with exotic potted plants, orange and
lemon trees, lounge chairs with umbrellas, and verdant gardens. Blooming plants
and bushes I’ve never seen before were overwhelming my senses.
Lemons Photo: Ileana Johnson
Galleria Photo: Ileana 2016 |
It was cold outside, in the low fifties, damp and drizzly
Milanese weather. I had a cashmere
sweater on layered with a cotton t-shirt but it was not warm enough. It was a
good day for museum hopping and window shopping.
I picked a tie in a silk boutique for my hubby. Another boutique that was moving from the
Galleria to another location was offering umbrellas, costume jewelry, richly
decorated canes, theater binoculars, ballroom masks, silver and gold pieces
with ornate turquoise, and coral beads. Intricate cameos displayed the fine
artistry of Sorrento’s shell carvers. I have watched one such carver on a
previous trip to Sorrento; he had a deep blister in his palm where he was
holding a short stick with the cameo on one end. He was carving it with so much
focus that the raw skin in his palm did not seem to matter.
Duomo front door Photo: Ileana |
We entered the Duomo because I wanted to pray for my family
and to light a candle in memory of my Dad. It was even colder inside; the
majestic stained glass windows did nothing to increase the warmth of the cold
marble floors and walls. There was a service in progress already and signs of Silenzio were posted here and there.
Tourists were still quietly milling about, taking photographs. This time I couldn’t climb the stairs to the
roof to admire the flying buttresses and the gargoyles up close. The
spectacular panorama of the city that we saw eight years ago would have to wait
on this cold and dreary day.
Getting lost was a daily occurrence in Italy; it was part of
the exploratory fun. We never knew what we might find along the way. A little
old lady walking in high heels but with a cane, asked us if we needed help. You
had to admire the Italian ladies’ fashion sense that could not be compromised
even when handicapped. Who wants to wear comfortable shoes when they are so
unsightly? We must have looked utterly lost,
chattering in English. I explained to her in Italian that we were looking for
the metro station. She smiled and told us with a friendly wink that, on May Day
every year, all public transportation stops at 7 p.m. Of course, tourists like us, even though I
speak Italian, did not get the memo that on the International Socialist Labor
Day, public transportation will grind to a halt and tourists will be stranded
miles away from their suburban hotels where prices are more reasonable.
Milan's largest public park Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
We backtracked through the public park, passing ponds with
geese, ducks, turtles, and large fish coming to the edge to be hand-fed. A few
local kids were playing soccer in the muddy grass even though a sign said
clearly, “Stay off the grass.” Italians are obsessed with their city grass, no
humans are allowed to pass through, rest, or play on it.
We finally hailed a spotless cab and, for nine euros, it
dropped us off by the Duomo again. We were still far away from our hotel. We
decided to eat dinner. For 81 euros we had very bland and non-descript pasta at
Savini, a great disappointment. The only
thing I enjoyed was the complimentary grissini
(bread sticks) that came with the meal and the bottled mineral water. When it
came time for gelato, the gelateria
had already closed for the night. The town had rolled the streets up. The metal
gate entrances to the metro were locked with heavy chains and it resembled a
dungeon.
Milan's Duomo at night Photo: Ileana Johnson 2016
While in the Piazza del Duomo, bathed in the copious light
illuminating the Milanese cathedral, we joined a huge taxi line of at least 100
people, shivering in the damp evening. A few non-taxi Arab drivers, eager to
make a profit, approached several people in line and offered to take us to our
hotel for 100 euros, about $120. Such an outrageous fee yet there were takers.
A few Japanese tourists climbed into unmarked cars, probably so anxious to get
out of the cold that they did not care whether it was safe, reasonably priced,
or a good idea. We stood in line behind two girls from Boston who were studying
in Nice and had taken a weekend trip to Milan. When our turn came, the taxi
fare was only 25 euros, four times less than the scalpers had asked. The crabby
taxi driver told us very gruffly to get out of the cab, we were too slow for
her; she was in a hurry to go back and pick up more stranded tourists.
Part of the taxi line in Milan Photo: Ileana 2016 |
Sounds like you are enjoying the good things Italy has to offer in spite of the crabby taxi drivers:-) Tea and scones when you get back is a MUST!
ReplyDeleteLove you and pray for you everyday.
Alice
Thank you, Alice. I tried to avoid too many sweets except gelato.
DeleteIleana