The
rental lot gate keeper required a small bribe to let me in. The employee who handed
me the key to the car spent an inordinate amount of time presenting all the
features on the car, treating me gingerly as if I was incapable of
comprehension. I probably drove more vehicles and more years than he had imagined
or I cared to admit. The VW Jetta would be my means of transportation for the
next 12 days – no crowded trains, buses, metro, trolleybuses, or trams. I had
spent an extra $55 on a GPS, knowing that it would be my lifeline between being
utterly lost and finding where I wanted to go. Road signs, I learned the hard
way last year, were scarce and incomprehensible at best. I never knew when
roads ended sharply onto pastures as far as my eyes could see.
With
a condescending smirk on his face, the Avis attendant allowed me to drive off,
not before tipping the gate attendant again. Because remuneration is so miserly
for most people, they supplement wages with bribes. Little has changed since
the communist regime. And thus began my journey of discovery and reportage into
the new world order of capitalism infected by neo-communism of European
lineage.
Every
350 meters, the GPS voice warned me of roundabouts. After a while, I felt like
I was in roundabout hell. As long as I followed the only traffic rule that
Romanian drivers respected, the car already in the roundabout has priority, I
was safe. As I become more comfortable with roundabouts, I realized that they
saved me money, time, and Diesel. This was welcome news since gas and Diesel
were $10 a gallon. Diesel Maxx, a bio fuel mixture with rapeseed oil, was
almost $11 a gallon. We used rapeseed oil to cook with under Ceausescu’s regime
when sun flower cooking oil was hard to find. I could have sworn my Diesel
smelled like French fries.
Traffic
rules were mere humorous suggestions. Only visitors like me respected or
followed them. Drivers passed each other on the left, on the right, on the
sidewalk, on the pedestrian median, on the tram tracks, parked wherever they
wished, drove very fast and in reverse in the middle of a multi-lane street.
The few traffic police, Politia Rutiera, hardly kept up with the infractors.
Now and then I would see a car with a boot on or a speeding car stopped by a
policeman who was writing a ticket. Most drivers get out of paying fines by
offering bribes. They know someone who knows someone else and thus the ticket is
voided, no lesson learned.
I
finally understood the condescension of the rental lot attendant. Male drivers
considered female drivers a nuisance on the road that prevented male
chauvinists from reaching their destinations faster, like a fly in a fresh
glass of milk, an attitude left from the communist era when women were
generally not allowed to drive and few actually passed the very stringent
driving test.
Stations
used attendants to pump gas for patrons, especially for women. Perhaps men
thought we were not competent enough to pump our own gas. I enjoyed this
service immensely, not having to get my hands dirty with Diesel. I gladly paid
the tip.
Drivers
honked angrily and constantly at each other, leaving those driving within the
speed limit in a halo of dust. The noise pollution in big cities was huge. Pedestrians
were target practice for the angry, rude, and hurried drivers. The mortality
rate of pedestrians was unacceptably high.
I
became exhaustingly defensive and tense in my driving, watching for goats,
sheep, cows, shepherds, buggies, horses, bad drivers, and foolish pedestrians
darting across busy highways and roads with total disregard for their own
safety.
I
was driving cautiously slow in the Carpathian Mountains through endless hairpin
curves, my four-cylinder Jetta struggling to climb the steep incline. The GPS’
purple image of the twisted road looked like a heart monitor in atrial
fibrillation. I did not dare look much to my left or right – the huge drops
made my stomach churn and gave me vertigo. Yet drivers would honk and pass me
with total disregard for the double lines painted on the road or the risk to
their lives and the lives of others. They were on a mission to get wherever
they were going really fast. The roads were littered with smashed vehicles and
upturned 18-wheelers, taking up sometimes 5 hours or more to clear the road. Forty
miles from my medieval town destination, Sighisoara, the driver of an
18-wheeler had overturned his fully loaded rig, blocking both lanes, and
stopping traffic for six hours. I only hope that he survived this terrible
accident that he alone had caused.
Many
things have improved in the lives of Romanians since the fall of communism in
1989. Capitalism and entrepreneurship are flourishing because regulatory
bureaucracy is insignificant when compared to regulations in the west. But
unchecked and unpunished corruption coupled with expected briberies have
reached pandemic proportions.
Business
is conducted on two levels – there is the legal contract for taxation purposes,
and the “sub rosa” contract, hiding the real transaction. Usually, the written
contracts contain lower figures in order to escape taxation. The oral, under
the table contracts, during which bribes and percentages are paid to various
middlemen, are really the bona fide contracts. Written contractual documents
are so arcane and complex that state notaries have very lucrative offices,
raking in more money than attorneys.
State
owned enterprises are scavenged by various interested parties who are appointed
to run them, with total disregard for public/private ownership or
accountability. Those running and/or managing the plant become “ticks” that “suck”
the plant’s resources to bolster their own private companies, just like they
used to do under the communist regime.
Case
in point, Oltchim S.A., one of the largest chemical companies in Romania with
over 3,300 employees, has not paid its employees in months and is now bankrupt.
The economic crisis of 2008, mismanagement and theft of resources by employee
“ticks” that drained resources and sucked the lifeblood of Oltchim for their
own private interests were the undoing of Oltchim S.A. Oltchim S.A. used to be
the Ramnicu Vilcea Chemical Works during Ceausescu’s communist regime. It
became a joint-stock company in 1990 by post-communist government decision.
According
to Dan Straut, Oltchim had become a victim of the fall 2008 economic crisis
when Petrom, the main supplier of inputs for Oltchim, closed its petrochemical
installations. Oltchim is heavily in debt, owing 250 million euros to AVAS (the
state authority) and 147 million euros in utilities. Oltchim is a major player
in the Romanian economy because it produces chemicals used in 80 percent of
consumer products and is a main exporter. (September 10, 2012)
While
I was in Romania, the scandal and the circus that followed Oltchim’s inability
to meet its payroll for six month or more and pay its creditors, placed two
camps at odds on a daily basis – those who wanted to maintain the state
ownership of Oltchim, promising to raise the 45 million euros needed to save
it, and those who wanted to completely privatize it in order to reorganize it
and weed out the waste, unaccountability, and corruption. Dan Diaconescu, a TV
station owner, misled the whole country that he would raise the necessary funds
to give workers their back wages and pay creditors, coming up short and
empty-handed with only 3 million euros in a bag from mysterious European
sources. The corruption and mystery continue.
My
hotel in Brasov was hosting a Cybercrime Seminar sponsored by the U.S. Embassy,
American Express, EBay, Microsoft, Western Union, MoneyGram International, and Trust
wave. During discussions encouraging Romanian authorities to pass tougher laws
on cyber criminals and offering help and expertise, a participating Romanian
judge took umbrage with the suggestion and pointed out that foreigners cannot
come into their country and tell them what to do. In other words, we like to
maintain the status quo. So what if hapless Americans and westerners with money
to burn are defrauded by young Romanian cyber criminals, often underage, by
hundreds of millions of dollars?
It
appears that old habits die hard. Sixty years of communism, theft, and abuse of
power are hard to overcome even though a strange form of capitalism has taken
strong roots in Romania. The shadow communism never went away and is
re-emerging with a vengeance in public life with empty promises of free food,
easy money, and free housing. The corruption that emerged from communism got
more sophisticated and exploded on a grander scale, aided by the Internet age
and the ability to travel freely and quickly across many time zones.
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